We were all recovering the previous night's activities so we had the perfect leisurely day on Friday with a visit to the most famous museum in Spain, the Prado, followed by a relaxing afternoon in the Parc Buen Retiro, what I think of as Madrid's version of Central Park. We were fortunate to have amazing warm weather and sunny blue skies in Madrid with daytime temperatures in the low 60's. We didn't get going until 1pm and kicked the day off right with the perfect hangover brunch at La Plateria, conveniently located almost across the street from the Prado Museum. I was a new person after the meal: the runny eggs over potatoes (why do Spanish potatoes taste so different, so creamy) with sausage was just heavenly and I loved the accidentally ordered (lost in translation) smoky fabada stew / soup with creamy beans and all sorts of porky bits in it, including blood sausage, pork belly, ham, chorizo. It was so flavorful with incredible depth and richness. Prices were a little on the high side for lunch (about $40 USD with 3 cafe con leches), but well worth it.
The Prado Museum and Velasquez
From the web, my favorite painting in the Prado, Goya's "Saturn Devouring One of His Sons." I just love how dark and disturbing it is; very visceral in real life even though it's not a very big painting
We really liked these broccoli trees for some reason
The park had a lovely variety of landscaped gardens, various fountains and denser foliage
We just sat by this (artificial) lake for a long time, soaking in the sunshine, people watching, listening to the live dixieland band, drinking a fanta; I swear, it felt like it was a scene right out of a movie
The band rocked
Random laundry hamper sculpture in the glass building in the middle of the park
After a couple of long flights from LAX with a connection in New York, I arrived in Madrid on Thursday morning at 9:45am and somehow managed to stay out until 3-4am (none of us actually remember what time we got back to the hotel). We stayed at the Hotel Paseo Del Arte right by the Atocha train station. It turned out to be the perfect location, as it was right next to the train station, basically across the street from the Reina Sofia Museum, a few blocks from the Prado and Parc Buen Retiro, and right on the #1 metro line, which took us directly to Sol, Malasana and Chueca, where we spent most of our time. It was a big, clean hotel, the beds were really comfortable, and at USD$150 for three people, pretty reasonable. Like lots of European cities, Madrid is really easy to get around; it's very walkable and convenient by metro, train, taxi and bus. I took the new Aeropuerto Expres bus from the airport to Atocha for only 2 euros. Beat that LA!
We basically walked around a lot, did some shopping along Gran Via and Fuencarral, visited the Reina Sofia Museum (for free, between 7-9pm), went tapas bar hopping in La Latina along Cava Baja and then to a couple of bars / clubs in Chueca for some serious drinking and dancing. One of the most noticeable difference between this visit and my last visit to Spain four years ago was the ban on smoking in bars and restaurants. A really great change, for me at least.
Breakfast: bocadillo mixto (sandwich with ham and cheese) and some chorizo (and not pictured, a cerveza)
Plaza Mayor
Catedral across from the Palacio Real
Palacio Real
Reina Sofia Museum: I like contemporary art more than the older stuff. The museum itself wasn't particularly attractive, but I liked the art. It's free from 7-9pm, which is just about the right amount of time for me in a museum. I'm not one of those people who can spend all day in one museum, but I do enjoy them for a couple of hours at a time.
Photo from the web: the most famous piece in the Reina Sofia: Pablo Picasso's Guernica. It's really evocative in real life, the painting is humongous. What's also really cool is that they have practically a whole room dedicated to sketches made in preparation of the larger work.
Tximiri on Humilladero, 6 in the La Latina district. Bigger sized portions than most of the other places. We also learned our first tapas hopping lesson: no more than one glass of wine / beer per place
Champis (Mushrooms) stuffed with foie and caramelized onions
Hamburguesa Unai, one of the signature dishes made with beef cheeks
Tapas from Txacoli from top clockwise: Polpo (octopus), pimiento relleno topped with anguilla (stuffed red pepper with baby eels) and morcilla (blood sausage) wrapped with potatoes (?) and topped with a fried egg
I believe this was at Txacolina
Tempranillo Bar, last tapas stop for the night
From rear to front: rabbit, anchovies and cheese, and eggplant (I think)
The chefs that worked the bar in front of us plus Albert Adria, second from the right
I'm starting the Spain trip recaps with my last meal of the trip first since people are particularly curious about this eagerly anticipated restaurant that just opened the day before our reservation. We were fortunate enough to snag an early reservation online at the brothers Albert and Ferran Adria (of Inopia and elBulli) and 3 Iglesias brothers (of Rias de Galicia) new restaurant venture in Barcelona, Tickets Bar, for my last meal of the trip and what a memorable meal it was. I love the exuberant atmosphere; the colorful decor and layout is just so fun; it's brightly lit with blinking lights and scrolling tickers with scattered themed bars and bar height tables. We sat at the bar where they were assembling little tapas plates with bacalao, bonito and anchoa (anchovies). The concentration and precision that they were applying to craft each plate was mesmerizing to watch. Although they were very busy behind the bar, the guys were adorable and still very gracious and friendly and we enjoyed chatting them up on their breaks.
Service was great; I don't know what we would have done without our charming server, Manel, who gave us great recommendations (and fortunately for me, spoke excellent English). Everything was beautifully plated and presented and the flavors and textures were delicately bold...definitely food that is delightful yet makes you think. Of course the food reminded of Jose Andres' restaurant the Bazaar, in Los Angeles, which I've been to on several occasions for both dinner and high tea, but the food at Tickets had a precision and delicacy to it with uniquely Spanish ingredients that cannot be matched. Plus it didn't have the LA "cooler than thou" scene / attitude to it, always a plus. Overall, just a great, fun experience that truly capped off our wonderful trip. We ordered way too much food and wine, but we just wanted to try as much as we could off the menu. Fortunately, our hotel was only a short 4 block walk away, lucky us (and yes, usually I do pick my hotels for their proximity to good food). In any case, time for the main attraction, the food:
Las aceitunas - S variedad verdial de Tickets: the famous spherical olives, so good: a smooth, just chewy enough outside texture that gives way to a rich and decadent olive and olive oil flavor explosion that just engulfs the tastebuds
So glad that we had six!
"Jamon de toro" Ventresca de Atun en salazon casero pintada de grasa de jamon iberico: the silkiest, thinnest, most delicate toro that I've ever had
Pascaito frito con algas gallegas: the lightest crispiest fried fish; reminds me of Asian snackfood
Tomates y fresas en su jugo al aroma Mediterraneo y aceite de oliva virgen: refreshing strawberries + tomatoes, who knew! I fell in love with spanish olive oil on this trip
De bonito soasado con gelatina de refrito: loved what gelatin added to the bonito, both texturally and flavor-wise also had a hint of Asian flavor to it
Ostras con u perla y juga de lechuga de mar: oysters with a "pearl" of sea water. I felt like I was eating this dish underwater, very interesting
Navajas al natural con jengibre, cayena y aire de limon: I love razor clams and these were meaty yet airy with the foam
Airbaguette de panceta iberica Joselito: rich and delicious with a crunch of the airbaguette. Very similar to Bazaar's version of Philly cheesesteak
Pipas de conejo con Allilioli espumoso: little rabbit ribs perfectly fried with a nice garlicky dipping sauce. I felt a twinge of guilt at eating something so cute
De bacalao con nectar de tomate y aceituna negra: lovely white fish with the pungent San Sebastian pickled peppers plus tomatoes and olives
I am pretty sure this is the de semillas de tomate y anchoa del Contabrico; I love spanish anchovies
Ravioli liquido de queso de Payoyo, a little Payoyo cheese sphere, my idea of a perfect dessert
Bunuelos de chocolate calientes
To accompany all the food, we had several glasses of local red (Garnacha) and white Catalan wine from L'equilibrista as well as some Luis Canas Rioja Crianza and cava. Dinner was about 180 euros for 2, but we ordered a bit too much wine and food.
Tickets Bar Avenguda de Paral.lel, 164 08015 Barcelona
I figured that I would start with a quick summary of the trip, to be followed by more detailed posts. Though it's impossible to summarize such an amazing trip with so many highlights, here's my attempt in just a few words:
Madrid (Nights 1-2): museums, shopping, nightlife
San Sebastian (Nights 3-5): FOOD, beach, Guggenheim, nightlife, new friends
Barcelona (Nights 6-7): architecture, molecular gastronomy, shopping, and yes, more nightlife
iPhone photo of one of my favorite dishes of the trip: tomato stuffed with squid over rice with local cheese and squid ink from Bodegon Alejandro in the Parte Vieja area of San Sebastian.
Full posts with pictures to come, but a quick iphone shot from tonights random Dixieland show at barcelona's luz de gas club. It's been a wonderful trip with some incredible meals, new friends and memorable adventures.
