Thursday, February 16, 2012

NYFW FW'12 Review Part II: Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and the Rest

Marc Jacobs. All images from nymag.com
I gotta say, I was a lot more inspired by the first few days of FW 2012 Fashion Week; I just found those younger designers (Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu) so much more exciting and fresh. Clothes I would want to buy.  A lot of the more established designers (Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren) were just a little boring, all things we've seen before: suiting, tartan, Stepford wives, retro-equestrian American sportswear, respectively. Calvin Klein was particularly serious and austere; such a contrast to the ethereal looks of the spring collection. Marchesa had a bunch of very pretty red carpet worthy gowns, but as usual, never particularly original, nor particularly "fall" feeling. I liked Proenza Schouler's collection, the origami jackets as well as more tailored looks with a bit of Asian inspired brocades, very wearable. Not surprisingly, I also liked Theysken's Theory for cool everyday wear, though it was quite similar to his past collections. Of course Marc Jacobs' show was a standout, he's always exciting and memorable if anything. I'm not sure his collection, with the tulip shaped oversized silhouettes and funny fuzzy hats, was as wearable as some of his recent collections, but it was certainly interesting. As for themes, sheer chiffon or lacy peekaboo looks and Asian brocades and patterns were some recurring themes.
All images from nymag.com
Marc Jacobs. You can't help but smile at his collections. These hats are insane. Part Dr. Seuss, part pimp hats that you buy at Ricky's at Halloween
Marc Jacobs
Proenza Schouler. I really like some of these silhouettes
Proenza Schouler: some interesting fabric choices, very cool
Theyskens Theory. Always cool and super wearable
Victoria Beckham. I actually quite liked the body conscious dresses of this collection. Of course you need to be Beckham thin and a billion feet tall to pull it off
Pretty but predictable Marchesa
Marc by Marc Jacobs. More wearable than the Marc Jacobs line
Donna Karan. I like the center dress with the strong shoulder
Vera Wang
Rodarte
Calvin Klein (so austere!), Thakoon and Zac Posen. Sorry for the clashing looks / colors
Oscar de la Renta (styling very literal), Michael Kors (one of the few non-tartan looks), Ralph Lauren. See commentary above

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